1. Two narrow bands from a doll s robe
   Tissus d’Égypte, p. 294-295.
   
   
   
2. Narrow band with lozenge-derived patterns
   Thomas, Textiles from Medieval Egypt, A.D. 300-1300, p. 46.
   
   
3. Narrow band of lions
   Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 83.
   
   
4. Double band with inscription and openwork
   Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 19.
   
   
   
   
   
5. Red and blue striped band
   Otavsky and Sal m, Mittelalterliche Textilien I: gypten, Persien und Mesopotamien, Spanien und Nordafrika, p. 105, No. 66.
   
   
   
6. Stacked bands of crosses in triangles
   Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.
   
   
7. Zigzagging crosses
   Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 201, No. 472.
   
   
   
   
8. Reversing crosses
   Abegg, Apropos Patterns for Embroidery, Lace and Woven Textiles, p. 27, fig. 20.
   
   
   
   
9. Star in diamond pattern
   Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 27, plate 2.
   The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number T.135-1928.
   
   
   
10. Small bird and branch pattern
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number T.326-1921.
    
    
    
11. Lebanese bird and branch pattern
    Momies du Liban, pp. 76-77, Had. 91-6 B.
    
    
    
12. Bird and branch pattern
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number T.326-1921.
    
    
    
    
13. Border, possibly for the bird and branch pattern above
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number T.326-1921.
    
    
14. Bird and branch pattern
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 8.
    
    
    
    
    
    
15. Bird and branch pattern with cats
    Browne and Wearden, Samplers from the Victoria and Albert Museum, p. 26, plate 1.
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number T.326-1921.
    
    
    
    
    
16. Pseudo-Bird and branch pattern
    Volbach and Kuehnel, Late Antique, Coptic and Islamic Textiles of Egypt, plate 86.
    
    
    
    
    
    
17. Very wide diagonal band with bird and branch border
    Trilling, Aegean Crossroads, p. 24, fig. 7.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
18. Garment fragment with stars in square
    Epstein, Concernynge the Excellency . . ., p. 80.
    
    
    
    
    
19. Wide double band with pinwheels and diamonds
    Lamm, Some Maml k Embroideries, fig. 3.
    
    
    
    
    
20. Trellis with border
    Tissus d’Égypte, No. 186, p. 289-291.
    
    
    
    
    
    
21. Wide star and lozenge band with cut and drawn thread work
    Ioannou-Yannara, Greek Threadwork: Lace.
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number 770-1898.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
22. Band with flowers in octagons
    Atil, Renaissance of Islam, #123.
    
    
    
    
    
23. Circles set in a grid
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum , Accession number EA1984.414.
    
    
    
    
24. Stars and border, with pattern darning
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.415.
    
    
    
    
    
25. S-stripes with border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.417.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
26. Grid of lozenges
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.418.
    
    
    
27. Stripes of vines and leaves
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.419.
    
    
28. Central zig-zag pattern from a lid cover
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.422.
    
    
29. Band with diagonals
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.423.
    
    
30. Alternating stars and inscription with drawnwork
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.427.a.
    
    
31. Large octagons with pattern darning
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.430.
    
    
    
    
    
    
32. Band with star in square
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.431.
    
    
    
33. Narrow band with drawnwork
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.435.
    
    
    
34. Lozenge and diagonal band with drawnwork and pattern darning
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.436.
    
    
35. Squares with filling
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.398.
    
    
36. Check pattern
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.450.
    
    
37. Band of stars with turquoise filling
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.468.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
38. Four narrow patterns from a sampler
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.493.
    
    
39. Narrow scrolling band
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.516.
    
    
40. Pseudo-inscription border
    The Royal Ontario Museum, Accession number 910.122.25.
    
    
    
41. Stars in hexagons
    The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Accession number 48.1055.
    
    
    
    
42. Rosettes in diamonds
    The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Accession number 48.1077a-b.
    
    
43. Inscription with edging
    The Art Institute of Chicago, Accession number 1923.367a.
    
    
44. Small border with narrow hem covered with satin(?) stitch
    The Textile Museum of Canada, Accession number T87.0427.
    
    
45. Lattice band with three additional narrow bands
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number 1175-1900.
    
    
    
    
46. Band wth diagonal zigzags, with second band with filling patterns
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number 804-1898.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
47. Band of lozenges filled with a grid
    The Whitworth Gallery at the University of Manchester, Accession number T.1994.37.
    
    
    
48. Grid of rosettes with narrow border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.524.
    
    
    
    
49. Band of staggered octagons
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.525.
    
    
    
50. Border of treepods and octagons
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.527.
    
    
51. Double band of (1)Maltese crosses and (2)reversing flowers
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.543.
    
    
    
52. Band of diamonds filled with stars
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.565.
    
    
    
53. Band of winged diamonds in lozenge grid
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.567.
    
    
    
54. Lattice with blue border band, separated by very narrow bands and spaced cross stitches
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.568.
    
    
    
55. Band of stars and pinwheels
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.569.
    
    
    
    
56. Narrow band with diagonals
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.570.
    
    
57. Small birdless branch border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.176.
    
    
    
58. Small bird and branch border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.179.
    
    
    
59. Border of spaced branches
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.180.
    
    
    
60. Bird and branch border with floating birds
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.181.
    
    
    
61. Bird and branch border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.182.
    
    
    
62. Double wave pattern with Greek stitch border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.187.
    
    
    
63. Two wide geometric bands separated by a narrower band
    The Art Institute of Chicago, Accession number 1914.706.
    
    
    
64. Three patterns from a group of four fragments sewn together, possibly for a baby's jacket
    Asi-l-Hadath, Lebanon: History of a Grotto, p. 264, plate 7
    Momies du Liban, p. 79, p. 244, Had. 89-6-H
    
    
    
    
65. Three double running stitch patterns from a sampler fragment
    Asi-l-Hadath, Lebanon: History of a Grotto, p. 265, plate 7
    Momies du Liban, p. 244, Had. 89-6
    
    
    
66. Double band in double running stitch
    Asi-l-Hadath, Lebanon: History of a Grotto, p. 264, plate 7
    Momies du Liban, p. 244, Had. 89-6
    
    
67. Double running stitch band
    Asi-l-Hadath, Lebanon: History of a Grotto, p. 264, plate 7
    Momies du Liban, p. 244, Had. 89-6
    
    

Patterns from a sampler in Baker, Islamic Textiles, p. 75

The Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.479.
See the original

• Four Small Designs
• Large Diamond
  
  

Patterns from a sampler in Humphrey, Fitzwilliam Museum Handbooks: Samplers, p. 13

The Fitzwilliam Museum, Accession number T.166-1946.
See the original

• Two Narrow Bands
• Wide Lattice
• Zigzag
• Reversing W's
• Greek Key
• Flower in Diamond
• Diamonds and Triangles
• Diamonds in Diamonds
• Small and Large S's
• Two Diagonal Bands
  
  

Patterns from a sampler in Rhodes, The Batsford Book of Canvas Work, p. 61

• Interlace
• Diamonds and S's
• Diamond Stripe
• Flower Variant A
• Flower Variant B
• Quatrefoils
• Diamond-point Zigzag
• Twists and Diamonds
• Hooked Diamonds
• Zigzagging Diamonds
  
  

Flower-vine band
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.462.

Linked diamonds with mirrored border
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.466.

Hexagon and diamond band
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.463.

Diamonds with S-strips
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.464.

Border with interlace
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.465.

Flipped triangles
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.397.

Diamonds with hooks
Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 149, No. 346.

Complex Diamonds with hooks
Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 148, No. 343.

Scattered motifs from a Coptic garment
Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 151, No. 349.

Diamond and hook band
Errera, Collection d'Anciennes Étoffes Égyptiennes, p. 151, No. 350.

Narrow S-band with palmette border
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.180.

Band with interlaced knots in diamonds
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.186.

Diamond band with S-band border
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.188.

Bands with diamonds, and rosettes in lozenges
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.320.

Diamond grid
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.378.

CROSS STITCH PATTERNS:

1. Tiraz inscription
   Kelsey Museum.
   Tiraz inscription
   Red silk on linen. Reported as cross stitch, but appears to be Greek stitch, with additional single stitches.
   Kelsey Museum, KM 26741, Egypt, Abbasid period (10th century)
   
   
2. Blue and black bands
   Errera, Isabelle. Collection d'Anciennes toffes gyptiennes, #359 (p. 155).
   Fragment with five bands of embroidery. Blue and black silk on linen. Cross stitch.
   Egypt (9th to 11th centuries?)
   
   
3. Tunic fragment
   Merlange, Germaine. Catalog of the Elsberg Collection of Egypto-Arabic Embroideries of the Mediaeval Period, The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club, Vol. 12, No. 1 (1928), #15 (p. 28).
   Red and green silk on linen. Cross stitch. Square outlines are in Greek stitch.
   Elsberg Collection. Egypt, late Fatimid or early Ayubid period (12th-13th century)
   
   
4. Fragment from baby s jacket with diagonal pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
   Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
5. Fragment from baby s jacket with square pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 B (p. 60-61).
   Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
6. Tunic bodice and sleeves
   Momies du Liban, Had. 90-35 D (p. 67).
   Red and brown silk on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
7. Fragment from baby s jacket with rosette pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
   Red and brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
8. Fragment from baby s jacket with cross pattern
   Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 B (p. 76-77).
   Brown on cotton. Appears to be some form of cross stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
9. Cruciform rosette
   Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 A (p. 78-80)
   Embroidery in red on cotton. Appears to be Greek stitch.
   Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
   
   
10. Fleur-de-lys band
    Momies du Liban, Had. 89-6 E (p. 78-80)
    Embroidery in red and brown on cotton. Appears to be cross stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
    
    
11. Sampler fragment.
    Ellis 35 (p.53)
    Blue, yellow and green silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    It is not apparent from the single repeat of the motif worked in green, but when spaced properly, this is a popular counterchange pattern.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.502, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century, radiocarbon date 1285 40)
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.516. XXX
    
    
12. Scarf or girdle.
    Ellis 36 (p.54)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch. The linen is not even close to an even-weave
    Same counterchanging foliate pattern as the sampler, worked in S-direction in one band, and Z in the other.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.152, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)
    
    
13. Fragment.
    Ellis 37 (p.55)
    Red and blue silk on linen. Greek stitch, with some cross stitch in the border.
    Third variation of the counterchanging foliate pattern above, alternating red and blue.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1984.340, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century)
    
    
14. Sampler fragment.
    Hoskins 19 (p.224)
    Unknown, possibly black or brown, and red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)
    
    
15. Sampler fragment.
    Hoskins 20 (p.224-5)
    Red silk on cotton, 55 tpi. Cross stitch.
    Current location unknown, Egypt, Mamluk period (mid 13th-early 14th century?)
    
    
16. Zigzag band with fleurs-de-lys.
    Ellis 38 (p.56)
    Blue silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.156, Egypt, Mamluk period (14th century)
    
    
17. Lotus bud band
    Ellis 39 (p.57)
    Red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.153, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)
    
    
18. Eight-pointed star in octagon in square.
    Ellis 55 (p.82-3)
    Blue, red and yellow silk on linen. Greek stitch and spaced cross stitch.
    Ashmolean Museum, 1993.357, Egypt, Mamluk period (1250-1517)
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.357.
    
    
19. Fleur-de-lys band with border.
    Lamm, fig. 6 (p. 67)
    Red, blue and cream silk on linen. Main band in plait stitch, borders in cross stitch.
    This border uses a fourth variation of the immensely popular counterchanging foliate pattern.
    Egypt, Mamluk period (15th-early 16th century)
    
    
20. Band of stars
    The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, Accession number 48.1056.
    
    
21. Band with rosettes
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.514.
    
    
22. Lozenges with inscription
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.32.
    
    
23. Bands from a tunic fragment
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.101.
    
    
    
24. Band with lozenges and border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.316.
    
    
25. Narrow band with diagonal S's
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.374.
    
    
26. Band of rotating lozenges with border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.376.
    
    
27. Squares with swastika filling and a border
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.381.
    
    
28. Narrow band of triangles
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.385.
    
    
29. Fleur-de-lys band
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1984.386.
    
    
30. Fragment
    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries, The Jameel Centre for the Study of Eastern Art, University of Oxford - Ashmolean Museum, Accession number EA1993.145.
    
    
    
    
31. Band of diamonds with border on all four sides
    The Victoria & Albert Museum, Accession number 761-1898.
    
    
    
32. Tunic sleeves
    Momies du Liban, Had. 90-32 D (p. 62).
    Red and brown silk on cotton. Probably Greek stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
    
    
33. Tunic sleeves
    Momies du Liban, Had. 91-6 C (p. 77).
    Red silk on linen. Probably Greek stitch.
    Beirut National Museum, Lebanon, about 1283
    
    
    
    

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